Would you use this lower half of gear case oblong bolt hole ?

[outboardnut]

This is from a 1955 Johnson 25 HP. Apparently the gear case got a owie. The bolt got the brunt of the impact and got bent. Also the hole of the lower half of the gear case got elongated. But the upper half of the gear case where the threads are fine. I am concerned about water intrusion around the new bolt I will put it. Whenever I seal a gear case I always use Scotch 847 and always coat the threads of the bolts when putting it back together. I was thinking about using an extra amount of 847 on that particular bolt. What is your opinion??

[JACQUES]

just refill it with high strenght JB weld… sand flush   redrill to bolt size.

 

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[Tubs]

Here are some unlisted clips of an old B.H. repair for an elongated hole I did many years ago. Maybe there is something there you can use to come up with a fix that would work for you. https://youtu.be/aEd0R1NMbFk

A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.

[Don]

Boy o boy, how did this happen?  Or, did you get he motor this way?  It’s almost as if someone tried to pry that skeg off without removing that final screw… I guess my concern would be are the two surfaces flat anymore?  Or, was the skeg surface bent/distorted when the incident happened.  If the surfaces are flat, then I wouldn’t worry much about the oblong hole.  The only real concern is that you must make sure that screw head seals properly, so use a good dose of sealer…  Unfortunately, the screws are behind the spaghetti seal, so any leak in this area will let water enter the gearcase.  A poor design/cost savings for sure, they should have used an oring on the screw heads to help ensure proper sealing.

[Michael Anfossi]

You didn’t say if all the bolts were bent or just the one.  Assuming just one bolt bent, I bet that someone tried to take it apart and missed that bolt and tried to pry it apart.  If all bolt were bent, I would assume it was from hitting something.  Agree with others, makes sure the surfaces are flat and true.

 

[outboardnut]

What I decided to do –
Is put a plastic bolt in the hole and surround the bolt with JB Weld.
Then when dried I turn it over and did the same from the other side.
We will see how it works out when I close up the gear case

[JACQUES]

I hope you greased that plastic bolt !!    why not just  fill with high strenght JB  and  sand flush   drill and tap if that is what you desire.

 

JB is very strong i fixed my skeg with it

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[Dale]

It is my opinion that your gearcase is one of the hardest to get to seal up!   The gasket under the water pump housing is critical.  The shock absorber that gets long will some times break that housing.  What ever you do make sure you check for water before freeze up time.  A little water in there through the summer won’t hurt anything.  There are no bearings, only bushings.  The case will crack for sure if it has water in it when it freezes!

dale

Experience is what enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again!

Mister Wilson

[outboardnut]

I did not fill the hole and drill a new hole because-
I do not have the means to drill EXACTLY where the hole was previously.
The plastic bolt did not get stuck.
Even if it did -I could drill it out. That is why I used plastic
A 1955 Johnson 25 HP does not have a gasket under the water pump housing.

[Dale]

outboardnut wrote:

I did not fill the hole and drill a new hole because-
I do not have the means to drill EXACTLY where the hole was previously.
The plastic bolt did not get stuck.
Even if it did -I could drill it out. That is why I used plastic
A 1955 Johnson 25 HP does not have a gasket under the water pump housing.

I stand corrected!   I should have reread the original posting.

dale

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