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#41230
frankr
Participant
    quote WetWillie:

    I figured as much. Sorry I wasn’t able to join you guys.

    Now about all the responses to my update posted at 8:25. I really appreciate the number of responses and the helpful comments. I don’t feel belittled, Chris, but I appreciate you asking. 😉 Like an idiot? Yes. But that’s by my own doing and not from any of the responses.

    I threaded the original bolts in, Wedgie, until the threads were no longer visible. Less than an inch would be my guesstimate. The puller was level and parallel, to the best of my ability, every time. I used an extra washer w/smaller ID under each washer to increase the surface area contacting the bolt head.

    My 2nd mistake of the day was threading the replacement bolts in further than 7/16″. Probably an inch total. FWIW, there was little to no resistance as I threaded them in. I doubt I damaged anything under the flywheel but won’t do it again. 7/16″ from now on. 😉

    Frank, I’ll get another set of Grade 8 bolts in the morning, thread them in 7/16″, tighten the pulley bolt as far as I feel comfy with and, per your suggestion, give it a whack with a hammer. What do I pry the underside of the flywheel up against while I hit it?

    THANKS to every one of you that has responded!

    Consider the anatomy of the thing. The crankshaft is able to move up and down a bit in its bearings. That is by design. When you strike the puller bolt you are attempting to knock the shaft downward out of the flywheel. If the shaft is resting downward by gravity, it has nowhere to go when you strike it, so the attempt is in vain. What you are doing is raise the whole kaboodle upward so the shaft has somewhere to go (and out of the flywheel). It makes no difference how you raise it. A pry with a big screwdriver is most convenient with most people. Use whatever solid and sturdy fulcrum point is handy to pry against.