Thanks JayzonAych. Yes the coils have the yellow epoxy in them. That is precisely why I never attempted to remove them from the base plate and laminations when I was testing them previously. SO Far…. They seem to be working fine. I have the original coils and condensers in the motor now and it runs pretty well in the barrel if it gets some throttle]
Unfortunately, the motor is well past warranty at this point..haha The coils would be of concern from a reliability standpoint. There were internal wiring issues that caused them to short out. You may want roll the dice or replace them to be sure, that is your call. One of the 5 I have had still had the yellow epoxied originals and the were DOA. A friend of mine who was a long time mercury dealer told me of the issue with the “yellow epoxied” coils, and warranty replacements. The laminate cores are not intended to ever be removed from mag plate. The coils were replaced by pulling them off laminates. I just found a mag with good coils and replaced it all on the one I had. The mags that followed the “yellow epoxied” coils were actually quite reliable. I have never had a original condenser from one of these mags fail the mercotronic load test, I would estimate I have tested about 12-20 of them in past 10 years. Also, in all those cases, the coils were still good. I think I have a 65 9.8 powerhead with a good ignition that would work for you I could sell ya. The “yellow epoxied” coils only existed in last half of 1963 models
, but really struggles as it drops down toward idle and trolling. I had attributed the rough idle to the leaking fuel line and misadjustment on my part. But that sounds like it may not be the case. So the chamber that provides back pressure relief for idle, is that the outlet port that is molded into the bottom/rear/center of the lower pan? It seems to have exhaust and some water coming out of it at times.
Yes, the snout cast into the rear of pan is the outlet for idle relief. At idle , basically all of the exhaust pressure would flow through there and yes water discharge also flows through . There is a fuel mixture screw for idle on that motor. Its at the top of carb throat. start somewhere around 1-1/4 turns out (cc) from lightly seating needle all the way in (cw) CC is enriching, CW is leaning. Generally I turn CW until is starts to cough slightly then CC until it smooths out, usually about 1/4 turn CC from when it started to run bad. If this seems to become impossible to get right that is when you should consider the other things I mentioned
I also included a shot of my complicated way of testing the water pump. I had tried to use my cordless drill but the motor’s drive shaft was too large to fit into the chuck. So I hauled the drill press out of the back of the garage( assuming that I would manage to dump water everywhere) and loaded the lower gearbox and water pump into the drill press. It was a difficult way to test, but it worked like a charm.
Ha! Love it!! I have done this with smaller motors and a hand held drill
I didn’t get a chance to work on the Mercury tonight as I went for ride on my other perpetual project…. a1971 Honda CL450. Apparently I have a thing for machines that need a lot of TLC.
Welcome to the club! I also like vintage MC but offroad. My daughter and I are beginning work on restoring a 79 Honda xr80, my first bike and now hers. I also have been working on a 1989 Kawasaki KX250 I hope to ride in vintage offroad events
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