Re: I don’t know

[Tom]

Tubs,

I think I remember most of this…

Put the device on a rubber pad NOT a metal table.

You’ll need a battery to do coil tests. A 7.2 volt drill battery will do fine, terminals are inside the unit. Remove two screws on the top and it folds open.

Hook one test lead wire up to the isolated point, the other to the mag plate. Put a piece of paper between the points. Attach thick wire to the plug lead. Turn the switch to coil power test, and you should hear the motor run. Turn up the Lo-Hi dial until you see spark in the window, and read the power required to generate spark. That number is compared to a value on a list to tell you whether the coil is within factory spec.

If you have the extra lead, plug it into the PROD TEST hole. With the coil active, probe along the wire and around the area where the wires come out of the coil. If there’s HV leakage, you should see it.

Setting 2 is for low resistance measurement… like whether points closed or really closed. Useful to determine whether points are clean. Zero the meter with the wires NOT connected. Don’t leave the switch in this position if you don’t have to. Same goes for Setting 1.

Setting 3 is general resistance. Connect test wires and zero the meter, you have an ohmmeter.

Now plug in the unit…

Setting 4 is to measure condenser leakage. Hook up wires to condenser (not installed in mag plate) and press the red button to get a reading.

Setting 5 is to measure condenser capacity. Hook up wires as #4 and press the red button to get a reading.

Tom