Re: 1937 Sea King ~ Thor 2.4 hp crankcase seals

[Buccaneer]

Joe, Thanks for your thoughts.
This is the one I ordered. It looks like it come out of the
can like "Cheese Whiz". Is that correct?

When I use the Right Stuff and I pull the dried piece out to clear the passage way to spray more out to work on something else the dried piece I pull out is like a solid piece of rubber its very tough to spring when I pinch it between my fingers. It would also work well in an area with vibration it almost might even work like a shock absorber if enough of it was used in an area to dampen vibration. Its some of the best stuff I have ever used. If you ordered the spray type you might spray a tad out and let it dry and see what I am talking about. I really think it will serve you well being used around those bearings and will hold up well.
When I watched the YouTube video, it show the guy pulling out a big
dried rubber bunny turd out of the nozzle before use, as you described.

I don’t know if you should use the Right Stuff on the gasket that goes between the to case halves since you say the old gasket material used is pretty thick to begin with and if you use the right thickness gasket after squeezing the case haves together it would not be needed maybe just some oil on both sides of gasket. It also looks to be a pretty wide gasket.
Putting the gasket in, with our without sealer, bolt the halves together,
then seal the outer edge where the halves meet with the Right Stuff,
sounds like a good idea.

I am guessing the gasket material should be a certain thickness according to specs and your measurements for the crankcase. Also the cylinder base gasket should be a certain thickness so that the piston clearance from cylinder head at tdc is correct and you get the right compression levels your looking for and piston doesn’t slap the top of cylinder head. When I build 2 stroke sea doo engines I play around with the thickness of the base gaskets to get that right and they sell different size thickness base gaskets but I am guessing you will be making your own and I am guessing the cylinder has a base gasket since I have never worked on one.
I always save the old gaskets if possible for reference, so I’ll know how thick
the new ones need to be, etc. The cylinder to crankcase did have a gasket as well.

It sounds like your making the new brass bushing/bearings for the crankshaft I am guessing that you will make them the same outer dimensions as the old ones or the brass bushings you make slip into a metal retainer and that is where you will be using the Right Stuff sealant around the outer part of them.
Correct on your guesses.

I had heard those engines are hard to get to run right that might be the reason to much slop around the crankshaft bearings against case allowing air to enter the case and thus explains why they put the some kind of rubber around those bearings and used a thick gasket between case halves.
The main bearings have a little too much slop, especially the lower, so hopefully
if I’m successful in making new bushings, and have the crankcase sealed well, it will be a runner!
Thanks!

Prepare to be boarded!