Home › Forum › Ask A Member › ’67 80 hp V4; checking for air leaks? › Re: ’67 80 hp V4; checking for air leaks?

#69747
Alan
Participant

    Many thanks Fleetwin.

    Long story short, this motor has run great in the past on a previous boat. Sold the boat, put the motor on a stand, (indoors) for a about a year, and then mounted it on a different boat. I used the same wiring harness, control box, etc. I did convert it back to long shaft, (as it was when I first bought it), but it doesn’t seem to be binding, or making bad noises. I also added an ammeter, but the wiring harness I had was originally for an electric shift, and was pre-wired for one. I used a wiring diagram provided by Frank Robb, and it all went together fine. Same harness all along. Ignition switch was replaced at the outset, with a correct marine one, and has never given trouble.

    This happened today, on the lake. I’ve never had one run away before; not fun.

    It hasn’t run right since mounted on the, "new" boat, but I can’t imagine what the problem would be. Other than the ammeter, I made no changes to the wiring harness. The battery has sat in the boat for 6 weeks, with no power loss, so I’d be surprised if there was a short. Part of the problem was that the coating I originally used on the float dissolved into chunks, but I’ve cleaned the carb three times since then. I actually ordered a correct jet removal tool, and replaced the high speed jets, "orifices".

    I see no evidence that the crankcase has been opened. It’s always looked like a low hour, freshwater motor; factory paint on the block looks great. All fuel hoses and primer bulb replaced with good quality stuff; no improvement. Compression was 100 lbs per cylinder, when last checked. Impeller is almost new, and works fine. Puts out a lot of water through the exhaust when warmed up, and motor is not too hot to the touch. All ignition parts are new, or almost new. Distributor belt is recent, and distributor is correctly synched.

    Many thanks;
    Alan