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Well, I don’t know how to advise about the wiring, I’m not sure I understand the condition you are describing. Again, the best solution to damaged wiring is a new/used control box with decent wiring. I think CDI makes replacement engine wiring harness’ for this engine as well. The lead from the points to the amplifier box is critical, so I would look for a replacement timer base or perhaps someone just happens to have a new OEM lead assembly.
As for the recitifier, I would just use the standard OEM rectifier replacement. The engine provides a pretty constant draw on the battery, so no regulator is necessary, there is little chance of over-charging the battery….
The clipper circuit is there to reduce the impact of high voltage spikes the amplifier. The biggest causes would be things like loose battery connections or poor wiring, or perhaps and internal battery problem. So, in effect, this clipper circuit is a fairly basic voltage regulator in itself…
I surely would not remove the clipper from an older/original amplifier box. The question is whether or not newer replacement amplifiers have some sort of internal voltage spike/regulator built in making the external clipper circuit box redundant. I have wondered about this for some years now. I would be interested in hearing why CDI recommends removing the clipper, and if so, is this just for newer replacement amplifiers they sell.
Granted, the testing procedures for the clipper boxes are vague, the test results are sometimes confusing as well. I guess the best way to protect the amplifier is to install a voltmeter (not an ammeter) in the dash that is relatively easy to wire by tapping off the key switch inside the control box.