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To get it back to original, you’ll need the screw on cover for the hole in the photo, as well as the spring and pin retainer for the other end of the "valve stem". Then on the tiller bar, you’ll need the release lever / clamp assembly. I just got a set of castings from Art DeKalb and finished this job on mine, it works very well. For the cable, don’t use the original solid wire inside the spiral wound cable. Use a stranded wire inside a lined outer spiral wound cable. I used something from a lawnmower clutch cable that was perfect, and I have a leftover piece that’s long enough if you need it. It takes a lot less effort to open the valve, friction is a lot lower, and you don’t have to worry as much about bends in the cable.
Let me know if you need photos or more info.
Tom