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May 12, 2017 at 1:52 pm
#57594
quote Chris_P:
Step 1: Ensure the mating surfaces are square and no debris. I use gasket remover on both sides, then clean with acetone. I dress the handle on a machinist block with wet/dry on it to clean up metal and ensure it is true. Sounds straight forward right, but seen many guys installing new gaskets with chunks of the old one and residue still existing!
Step 2: Use a good sealer. Will some seal without? Perhaps. But use it anyways. OMC Gasket Sealing Compound usually does the trick, or as Frank stated, the Mercury equivalent.
Step 3: Use a new gasket. Obvious right, but thought I should probably add that.
Step 4: I use Gasket sealing compound on the bolt threads as well before installing bolts with new washers.
Step 5: Torque the bolts. Don’t guess. Tighten as you would a head gasket, in a circular fashion, starting in the center 2.
Step 2: Use a good sealer. Will some seal without? Perhaps. But use it anyways. OMC Gasket Sealing Compound usually does the trick, or as Frank stated, the Mercury equivalent.
Step 3: Use a new gasket. Obvious right, but thought I should probably add that.
Step 4: I use Gasket sealing compound on the bolt threads as well before installing bolts with new washers.
Step 5: Torque the bolts. Don’t guess. Tighten as you would a head gasket, in a circular fashion, starting in the center 2.
Should not have any leaks following these steps.
Agree 100% with Chris. When you lap the top casting mating surface, you may be surprised at how out of true the mating surface can be. For me, any leak is unacceptable. The key to keeping fuel fresh is a well sealed tank and cap. The first thing to escape from a poorly sealed tank are the lighter aromatic compounds. Once those are gone, you are left with old stale gas.
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