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#54654
PM T2
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    Canada Member

    Try to avoid using the revere method to remove plating from any cast iron.

    The chemicals and the process itself are not kind to that sort of ferrous iron, and the results can be severe pitting after the strip operation is complete.

    The guys who used to do plating for me in Oakville always advised me to glass bead cast iron if it had any old plating left sticking to it for that very reason. The chemicals and the process will also attack the substrate. This is particularly true if there are any rust stains or deposits on the substrate as well. FWIW I followed their instructions on glass beading cast iron prior to nickel plating, I had a few Caille Liberty Twin flywheels done, and they all came out really nice because of the prep work I was told to do ahead of time.

    Hope this helps. Another FWIW – I ran into the same problem as you with nickel deposit on cylinder walls when I had a set of Lockwood Chief cylinders renickeled. it was only for the first inch or so of bore at the base of the cylinder, I did not have plate deposits further up the bore at all, at least none that I could detect either through fit & function testing nor measuring with a telescopic gauge.. I removed it just by hand sanding with fine paper. Nickel is relatively soft compared to chrome.

    Hope this helps.

    Best,
    PM T2

    He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...