Welcome Jake11,
Pretty motor you go there. I’ll give you this bit of advice. Please be methodical in your assessment and diagnostics of the motor. It is easy to jump from one problem to another and change this part and that part. You will save your self a lot time and money by being patient and evaluating the motor.
A good step series of evaluation is compression first, then electric second and then fuel delivery.
C = compression (use a compression gauge)
S = spark (spark gap checker)
F = Fuel delivery
Another bit of advice, is do not assume the person who had the motor before you did the service to motor correctly even if they said they brought it to mechanic. There are plenty of mechanics that are not familiar with the repairs of this age motor.
Correct fuel to oil ratio is 24 to 1.
I will supply some information that will help you along.
First compression
Go to Auto Zone or similar store, they loan out a compression gauge with a deposit. Check your compression on your top and bottom cylinder. Just wanting you make sure you do not have compression issues. You can wrap a pull rope around the flywheel and manual pull until you get your spring starter repaired.
Here is a link to show how to do a compression test. ***Please let me know what the compression value is*** You may have to pull the rope 4 or 5 times to get maximum compression reading and pull on the rope like you mean to start it. Reminder, remove both spark plugs then test one cylinder at a time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I
Second Spark
Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.
Here is how to pop your flywheel off and it gives you information about re-torquing you flywheel nut.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=294072
Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSX…_order&list=UL
Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam.
FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. (Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting)
You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***
When you go to set the point’s gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance….poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.
Here is a picture of a spark check…Cheap $6
Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder.
If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.
***** Please make sure two things*****
1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! Be sure to reconnect the stop wires back on correctly.
2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.
Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)
Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.
I hope this helps ya out! Might have gone overboard a bit but wanted to make sure you had a good idea.