Re: New member just bought a 1956 Wizard Super 10

[green-thumbs]

"Lots of HEAT" translates to enough to get results…sometimes not the desired result…remember this is a step up from the usual techniques…the Mercury Service
Manual seldom has mention of stuck, corroded, snapped off fastener…none of the outboards
they serviced were 50 or 60 years old.
Now there is a crucial difference between the Early Mercury K Models and the KE4 and
later models…early K Model swivels had NO rubber or plastic bushings so nothing to
smoke or burn. The later swivel assembles do have a bushing which should be kept in
mind when heating the swivel…sometimes the bushing is fit for reuse and some times
not so you want to avoid damaging parts you may wish to reuse…you have to balance
that against the need to get things apart…sometimes you have to accept doing a little
harm in order to move ahead.

OK with me so far? The hollow swivel pin either has internal thread or it can be tapped
to have an internal thread.
The Early K Models 7/16 fine thread
Later Mercs can have thin wall pin 1/2" fine
There are thick wall pins…those you may have to drill for a convenient thread size and tap.
A nut on a threaded rod has a tremendous mechanical advantage so it exerts a LOT of pull
on swivel pin…it may not be enough…heating the swivel around the pin to expand
in addition to PULL may not work all the time. I have in past hack sawed pin above and
below swivel to salvage the saddle. I think the HEAT and PULL might have saved the
swivel and swivel pin.

If you are not up on use of a tap I can walk you thru the process.

Louis