Re: Suggestion for an antique outboard appraiser?

[PM T2]

Sheila;

If it’s only the timer that is broken, the repair costs for the parts themselves will likely run you in the $125 to $150 range, as long as the replacement parts are limited to the timer casting. all the parts out of the old timer can be transplanted into the new one, but you will need someone familiar with doing that sort of work to do it for you, or at least guide y’all through it. Obviously, having to pay someone to do the work is going to add to the bill.

As for an appraisal – since you’re asking for one, I’ll venture forth and give you an unsolicited opinion (and that’s all it is, an opinion, not a fact, rule, law, or mandate).

For what its worth – allow me to play devil’s advocate for a minute. I’m willing to go on record (and probably draw the ire of a few observers) as saying that your motor is not worth thousands of dollars. Not that I’m implying that you are thinking that way anyway, I’m just saying for the sake of clarity so you know where I’m coming from.

I’ll stick to the facts. It’s a model A Elto Light Twin Outboard with a serial number in the 10000 range, which puts it in the 1923 model year according the the model-year guide I’m using. It has the flat rudder and water pump, which is correct. (Hollow rudder wasn’t seen much until it showed up on the Model C). I’ll assume it’s not seized, and that the prop spins when the flywheel is rotated. There don’t appear to be large welds or obvious repairs on the exterior castings in the photos that are provided. This is all good stuff.

Less than good stuff – there is an obvious non-factory extension fastened to the timer handle. Both transom pads are missing, and the thumbscrew on the starboard side of the motor is a cobbled up replacement for the original. There is a broken piece of aluminum in between the transom clamps and it needs to be determined as to exactly what that might be for. The propeller is not seated in the proper position on the prop shaft, and it needs to be determined as to why. The original aluminum propeller nut has been replaced with one of steel. There appears to be what is a tiller handle zip-tied to the motor leg, and these motors did not come with a tiller handle, they were rope-steered. the tank has been dinged in and shows obvious signs of rust, which is not at all uncommon for these outboards with their thin-wall sheet metal tanks.

Here’s the opinion part that you may not like – at an AOMCI event, this motor would likely have to be priced in the $300 US range in order for one of our fine members to be seduced into buying it. Yes, in restored or mint original condition they might be worth hundreds more than that, but the reality is that it’s a neat old antique motor that has been allowed to accumulate dirt and dust, and may or may not have internal wear issues just waiting to be discovered.

Just an opinion…..here’s my disclaimer…

your mileage may vary. Void where prohibited. Do not bend, fold, spindle, or mutilate. Disclaimer does not cover misuse, accident, lightning, flood, tornado, tsunami, volcanic eruption, earthquake, hurricanes and other Acts of God, neglect, damage from improper or unauthorized repair, incorrect line voltage, broken antenna or marred cabinet, missing or altered serial numbers, electromagnetic radiation from nuclear blasts, sonic boom vibrations, customer adjustments that are not covered in this joke list, and incidents owing to airplane crash, ship sinking, motor vehicle accidents, dropping the item, falling rocks, leaky roof, broken glass, mud slides, forest fire, or projectile (which can include, but not be limited to, arrows, bullets, shot, BB’s, shrapnel, lasers, napalm, torpedoes, or emissions of X-rays, Alpha, Beta and Gamma rays, knives, sticks and stones, et al.)

Hope this helps.

Best,
PM T2

He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...