Re: TN26 resurrection

[vikkip]

Thanks for the speedy reply. I did find this site, and the "Brass cylinder" just isn’t in this carb. It must have been lost sometime in the past. Are they available? What is the purpose, to keep the brass and leather seals down at the bottom of the bore? The pump plunger rod by itself makes a nice discharge thanks to the friction between the leather and the plunger rod.

I was going to get a high quality cork to turn down, but looking at the original again it is pretty low grade cork. But since the float is pinned to the valve at a specific height, the fuel level isn’t really adjustable except for changing the buoyancy or height of the float. The old float is approximately 30mm diameter x 30mm height. I suppose I could reinstall it and see where it closes with water in the bowl, and match the level with the replacement. Too much buoyancy would close the valve too early and leave a low fuel level and too little buoyancy would act like a sunk float and allow too much fuel into the bowl. I don’t know what the correct fuel level is.

This motor already has a few years on me and should do it again. I live in a house that will turn 200 in 6 years so I appreciate old, well built things and know that old does not necessarily mean well built. I have a few ’70s two stroke dirt bikes, which are perhaps the most abused machines on the planet but it’s still easy to get parts for them. I have fun fabricating within reason.

I do have an air compressor and the carb is well cleaned. I did a nice soak in 50/50 Pine-Sol and hot water in my ultrasonic cleaner on all the castings, followed by a solvent flush. The check valve is now free and works correctly, it looked like a lump of tar when I removed it.

I have not yet figured out how to get to the water pump impeller. I did get the nut and prop off.