Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Water Getting in Top Cylinder Yamaha 40hp Twin › Re: Water Getting in Top Cylinder Yamaha 40hp Twin
Thanks for all the help. I finished the motor up Wed and we took the pontoon out for the evening and again all day yesterday for over 7 hours run time. The engine ran superfantastic. I used the valve grinding compound to ensure the crankshaft tapper and flywheel tapper matched. It worked like a charm. I used masking tape cutting like 2 inch strips of it working my way around crankshaft and seal to create a barrier for when I used the valve grinding compound to make sure it didn’t get into the top seal on crankshaft. Some did get on tape but that kept it from getting to seal. I had to do the valve grinding compound 2 times to get the burs off the crankshaft and make it fit like it should and rotate without binding. I noticed that the flywheel nut had a red residue on it so I decided to put the red loctite on it when I re-assembled it and torqued it to 116 ft lbs is what the manual said. The manual was just genric on the how-to put flywheel back on. I couldn’t find in manual whether or not to change the washer but I did face it in the direction I was taught at 13 years old when I built my first engine in night vocational school. I put some carb cleaner on a rag and used that to clean up the crankshaft where the valve grinding compound had been being careful not to get any on seal and used it to clean up the flywheel tapper to get rid of any oil or left over compound/oil it worked very well.
I did put 2 gaskets where the reed assy bolts to case to shim it out a little to be safe the new gaskets seemed thicker than the old one that was on there but it could have been smashed a bit but the new ones looked considerably thicker.
Here is a video of it running
Thanks for the help,
Joe 😀
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