Re: low tension magneto question

[johnyrude200]

Well, I ran into an issue with this motor where the timing is 180° off. Used a timing light and confirmed it’s firing backwards. I will admit, I’m still trying to understand where/when to set the points using the timing fixture. I put the T (#1) pointer between the plate marks, and set the #1 points (port side of the motor) to open at this instance, and repeated for the other side, but doing this basically killed the ignition. By setting the points to open with the timing fixture lined up and when the protrusion on the cam makes the points opened, this reversed the firing pattern on the coils but I had a 1/2" bright blue spark on both sides (albeit backward firing). I know I’m missing something obvious. (and advanced thanks for whomever tells me what I’m missing).

That aside, I switched the ignition out completely for the CD version and it fired up on 2 pulls cold.

Now the reason why I wanted to mention this is that it’s a 1975 powerhead with good compression (105+ dry), and I just finished running it for 4 hours straight on my test boat in 37° weather…water isn’t much warmer. Once warm, this motor would not stall out with the throttle/timing retarded as far down as it would go (the low idle stop is completely removed).

So for what it’s worth, the internals of this unit is better than any newer powerhead I’ve used in my limited experience! Reminds me a of a 5.5hp last year that wouldn’t stall out without using the choke (triangle shaped nob).

I will say that I don’t think the thermostat opened once over this 4 hour period even after being run for 2 mins straight at WOT. Seems that when these cooling systems are completely correct, in colder weather/water, they pump so much water that they don’t even rise enough at the powerhead to activate the thermostats. Interested to see how things work in another 4 weeks when it’s 65° and the lake/river is 50-60° water.