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Also, this video is terrible because, one, we got a socket on the flywheel nut which is pretty dangerous and two, the gas tank lid is vibrating off, so please don’t mind that…
Sounds like you’re having fun!
Check which lubricant is in there at the moment. If oil drains out, put oil back in. Oil is the first choice. If grease is already in there, you have some thinking to do. Some gearcases have upper bearings that should only be lubricated by oil, not grease. There is an AOMCI thread about gear grease vs oil that describes this, but I can’t seem to find it at the moment. If you choose grease, yes corn head grease is suitable.
For the water flow, yes it looks ok. Shouldn’t get crazy hot though. I think on this model it is a rubber rotor behind the propellor (not certain though), so not a concern like an impeller that if you run an old brittle one, a blade may fall off and get stuck your water line, because if the rotor breaks, there is no more pumping pressure to get the broken part stuck! With an impeller, the other blades can keep pumping and get the broken part stuck. What I mean to say is, so long as you make sure the water doesn’t stop pumping, you should be ok not replacing your water pump because with it’s location behind the propellor, you’d have to take off the shear pin and then source a new shear pin because those are single use items due to metal fatigue (not the right term) and you don’t want your propellor to fall off because the shear pin was reused and consequently weakened.
However, if I’m wrong and this motor has an impeller in the standard spot and not a rotor behind the propellor, good job at putting the water level above the impeller for testing!!! It is an unfortunatly common mistake to have the water level too low and risk impeller damage from dry running it but your water level is good. Of course, right to the top of the barrel wouldn’t hurt and then there is more water to dilute the motor’s heat too!
Finally, I don’t see any smoke in your video. This motor should take 16/1 mix 🙂