Reply To: 1936 Sportfour Imperial coil and condensers

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August 13, 2025 at 8:04 pm #298951
JACQUES
Participant

    chat gpt stuff ……….try it to get a  better display of this info

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    do you have a wiring diagram for 1936 Sportfour outboard

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    ChatGPT a dit :
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    Short answer: I don’t have a factory scan I can show here, but I can give you a correct, working schematic for the 1936 Evinrude Sportfour. There were two common wiring setups that year:

    1. the plain magneto-ignition (no electric start), and

    2. the Imperial Electric version (Model 9017) that used a starter-generator and a regulator (often wired 12-volt, frequently with positive ground on surviving examples).

    Below are clean, readable schematics for both.

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    A) 1936 Sportfour — magneto ignition (no electric start)

    Uses a flywheel magneto with two sets of breaker points/coils, and a simple “magneto-kill” switch that grounds the primary to stop the engine.

    [Magneto Stator]
    |---- Primary coil A ----> to breaker A -> to condenser A -> to magneto ground
    |---- Primary coil B ----> to breaker B -> to condenser B -> to magneto ground
    |
    +---- "KILL" lead (usually cloth-insulated single wire)
    |
    +----[Momentary or toggle STOP switch]-----> Engine block (ground)

    Spark plug leads from secondary coils go directly to the four plugs.
    No battery. No charging. One wire from magneto to a normally-open stop switch that grounds to kill.

    How to wire it:

    • Run a single insulated wire from the magneto’s “kill” terminal to a normally-open stop switch at the tiller/plate.

    • Other switch terminal to clean engine ground.

    • That’s it electrically; everything else is inside the magneto.

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    B) 1936 Sportfour Imperial Electric (Model 9017) — starter-generator + charge control

    Period hardware typically used an Owen/Dyneto-style starter-generator, a cut-out/regulator, an ammeter, and a battery. Many were 12 V and often positive-ground (confirm on your tag/regulator before wiring).

    (Often POSITIVE GROUND system)
    ________
    Engine Block ----| + |---- Battery (+) <-- often tied to block/frame
    | Batt |
    |______|
    |
    | Battery (–) cable to:
    v
    [Ammeter] (optional but period-correct)
    |
    [Starter Switch / Foot or Toggle]
    |
    [Starter Relay/Solenoid]* (some used a heavy manual contact instead)
    |
    +-----+---------------------------+
    | |
    [Starter/Generator] [Regulator/Cut-out]
    | D (armature output) | GEN/ARM
    | F (field) -------------------+-- F
    | | BAT -> to ammeter/battery (– post)
    | | (sometimes an "L" or "SW" lead to lights)
    +---------------------------------+

    Kill/ignition: same as non-electric—magneto “KILL” lead to a switch that grounds to stop.
    *If no solenoid, the start switch directly closes the heavy starter contactor supplied on some units.

    Notes that matter on the Imperial Electric:

    • Surviving motors often show a 12 V plate and have been found wired positive ground (block to +). Verify yours—don’t assume. Look for the Owen/Dyneto (or similar) tag and markings before you hook up a battery. aomci.org

    • Owners discussing the 1936 Sportfour Imperial Electric (9017) confirm the configuration and period charge control; there’s also chatter about the toggle controlling charge rate vs. on/off. aomci.org+1

    • The all-models 1911–1942 Evinrude/Elto service literature lists Sportfour and the electric-start variant, helpful for specs and generic wiring practice (magneto kill, cut-out/regulator placement), even when a model-specific page isn’t shown. marinemanuals.com

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    Practical tips before you wire

    • Confirm polarity and voltage on your generator/regulator tags before connecting a battery. Wrong polarity can toast the regulator in seconds. aomci.org

    • If your regulator has terminals marked BAT / GEN (or ARM) / FLD / (L or SW), wire as in diagram B: BAT back to ammeter/battery, GEN/ARM to generator armature post (D), FLD to generator field (F).

    • The stop switch always just grounds the magneto’s primary—no battery on that circuit.

    • Cloth insulation from the 1930s is fragile. Replace with modern tinned-marine wire but keep the runs and hardware locations true to original.

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    Joining AOMCI has priviledges 🙂