Reply To: Mid-1970s 85 HP Johnson Remote Control Problem

[Don]

OK, the horn in this older control box is metal, correct?  If so, it does not have a self test feature.  It is a good idea to test it though which is simple to do.   Spray some WD40 inside that rubber sleeve covering the head temp sensor so you can slide the rubber boot back.  Now, with the key in the on position, simply ground the connection blades to the block, the horn should sound.  No need to disconnect the bladed connection, just ground it.  If you do disconnect the leads, be sure to ground the harness side of the lead, not the sensor side.  True, this does not test sensor function, but it does test the horn and wiring.

Yes, there is usually is light spring inside that choke solenoid to ensure it returns to the open position.

OK, this is not a 1979 model, it is a 1973-77 model.  Does it have power tilt, or the massive external power tilt and trim unit?  There is no cut off switch when the unit reaches the down position, the pump motor will just slow down, I suppose it could actually shut off if the hydraulic pressure is too much for the electric motor.

The wiring is a little strange on these units.  There is an “up” solenoid that ensures maximum current flow when tilting up.  The down circuit is just wired through the power tilt/trim switch.  So, if the unit does nothing when “up” is activated, perhaps there is an issue with the up solenoid or wiring to it.   This up solenoid is buried somewhere in the boat, not on the engine.

You can use regular dexronII transmission fluid for this unit.  The knurled fill plug is on the side of the electric pump.  The unit is checked in the “up” position, but may be stuck down due to lack of fluid.  Open the knurled fill nut, fluid should come pouring out when down.  If not, fill it to overflowing.  Once you get the engine tilted all the way up, check fluid level again.