Reply To: new to aomci member, how to change coils points and condenser in classic omc

[Don]

Michael Wilson wrote:

Thanks guys, and Fleetwin I have zero experience with working on these classics. the timing part is the part I really am going to need to learn, gonna order the timing tool. well from what I heard you might as well reseal the gearcase when you do a tune up on these old motors. and I also have a Buccaneer 12 horse motor I need to do a tune up on too, And it wont go into reverse. want to ask what could make it not go into reverse? these are the 2 motors I plan on getting running first. and who makes the best coils and points for these motors? heard of fitment issues with the Sierra points about the holes needing to be drilled and or tapped out. Thanks and plan on finding a Buccaneer 25 horsepower motor down the road just trying to find one for sale lol.

OK, well I respectfully disagree with “…you may as well reseal the gearcase…..”.  Folks talk about this procedure like it is easy….  Well, most can probably get the gearcase back together, but sealed properly, highly doubtful.  Doing this job correctly is just not that easy.  So, I would recommend draining the gear lube (do not remove that phillips screw, it is the shift linkage) by removing the lower drain and upper vent screws and having a look at the oil.  If the oil is not milky, and there is no obvious water present, I would leave it alone.  If water is present, you will need to pressure test to find the actual leak issue.  All the new seals, orings, gaskets in the world can not compensate compensate for a porous/damaged casting or a grooved shaft.  Nonetheless, you should definitely remove the gearcase, change the water pump, and lube the driveshaft splines/oring.

As for the points, it seems like even the OEM new pieces have issues, so many folks file and clean their old points, which is fine…You just have to check for excessive rubbing block wear.  The condensers should be replaced, the coils and wires inspected as well.  You will need a decent flywheel puller to remove the flywheel..  You will also need a decent strap wrench and torque wrench to reinstall it.

So, for now, why don’t you drain the gear lube, and let us know what you find.  Let’s start with simple basic service procedures and go on from there.  You can always pull the inspection cover off the top of the flywheel to peek inside and have a look at the coils to see if they have cracked/fallen apart.