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#277690
Buccaneer
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    US Member

    Well, my “banjo” bolt seem to work great, but I did have a slow drip.
    A worse problem was gas bubbling out around the poppet valve cover.

    Looking back in my records, I see that I ended up installing different pistons,
    rods, new rings, etc., as the original pistons had a lot of pin slop.
    It might take a while to get the new rings to set in, but the compression seems
    good.

    It wouldn’t stay running in the video so I put the camera away.
    Came back to it a few minutes later, started on the first pull,
    and stayed running, but it quit pumping water after a couple
    of minutes so I shut it down. 🙁
    It stayed running with the carb needle about 1/8th turn open.

    Took the motor back to the workbench and took the carb back off
    to address the fuel leaks. The Poppet valve “Stop” (cork) was a good
    5/16″ above the valve stem when closed. It seem like way too big
    a gap, so I made a new stop out of Derlin rod, and the gap is now
    1/8″. Any idea if there’s a general rule as far as “gap” on these poppet valve
    carbs? Does the gap even matter as long as the valve can open a little way?

    I didn’t see much of anything for sea weed plugging the pump screens,
    and while my test barrel is pretty murky, there shouldn’t be much sea weed!
    I blew into the tell-tale outlet with my air hose, and there didn’t seem to be
    any obstruction. Not sure if the metal impeller sheared a pin, or if it’s just
    time to clean the test barrel.
    I didn’t get to re-try the motor afterward, as it decided to rain the rest of the afternoon.

    DSCN7332

    VIDEO
    https://youtu.be/aXjdSYGlvJ0

    Prepare to be boarded!