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Moving forward!! That’s great. Yes Joe is a personal friend too as well as a great parts sourse. If you go thru the gearcase watch out for tiny shims. They stick to the gears & hard to detect. Do you have the spanner tool for removing the round nut holding the propshaft on? If not Joe will have one or I made my own from hardened pins from the nut & bolt store & a piece of 3/4″ x 2″ steel from a old trailer hitch from a car. There is a very thin bolt holding the pinion gear to the propshaft & requires taking a 6 point box end hand wrench & grinding the bevel off one side to engauge the head of the nut to remove. to get total engaugement on the hex of the bolt & order a new locking tab from Joe. You will need to remove the bent up tabs before removing the bolt. The pinion is on a tapered bore so it still might be tight on the drive shaft after removing the bolt, that is normal. My 1965 & earlyer Mercury manual shows your 1100 but no drawing for your motor. I assume it’s the same as earlyer motors. You will be impressed the first time you go out!! Replace the check valves in the fuel pumps too & look for dirt under them.Did Dave have a way to remove the crankshaft seals without splitting the cases? Some cases start to leak compression & need to be resealed. You can spray soapy water on the mating surfaces while ideling & look for bubbles. We had to reseal the cases on a 80hp 6 cylinder once. Wouldn’t idle & kept running out of gas because of lack of pressure inside the crankcase. Mercurys a known for low fuel pump pressure on 6’s.
Great job & good luck.