Thanks for the readings – blue band = 6 (first digit of ohm value), grey band = 8 (second digit of ohm value) , the black band = 1 (multiplier) and the silver band is the tolerance which is 10%. So the resistor value should be 68 ohms with a tolerance of 10% (6.8 ohms). A measurement reading of 74.8 ohms shows it is right on the edge of the higher resistance tolerance but should still work ok. This is all assuming that it is the equivalent of the shunt resistor shown in the schematic which I cannot say for exact certainty.
The capacitor readings that you show on your meter are in nF (nanofarads) looking at your pictures. Capacitors (and condensers) usually found in ignition circuits can be measured in nanofarads or microfarads. Smaller capacitance values will often be stated as picofarads and if you do a google search you can find conversion calculators online to enter one reading value and have it converted to the other two values as the multiplier factor is all that is changing. A reading of 95.5 nF is equal to .0955 uF (microfarad) and looks like you are measuring a new capacitor with a value of 0.1 uF so the meter may be off a smidge or the test leads may not have been zero’d before taking the reading. Not criticizing – just observing as some capacitance meters need the leads to be connected together and zero’d before doing a test on the actual capacitor so any capacitacne in the meter leads is removed from the measurement. The reading you got on the 0.15 uF capcitor in the Mercotronic of 196.5 nF – this would equate to a value of 0.1965 uF. If we compare the two readings that you got on the two capacitors and assume the first reading on what looks like a new capacitor of 0.1 uF is off just a smidge then the one in the Mercotronic may be a little off its correct value at almost 0.2 uF. You could use a scotchbrite pad on the two leads of the capacitor in the Mercotronic to remove any tarnish on them as that could affect the reading accuracy as well. When measuring electronic components connection cleanliness is a must to obtain accurate readings. Given the age of that capacitor you could consider replacing it with a new one of the same rating and value but that is entirely up to you. I have experienced capacitors (which are the same component as condensers electronically) test good or just slightly off value using a tester such as you are using and still be bad in an ignition circuit as stated by the other poster in the previous post. The oscillations that occur in a primary ignition system when the ignition coil fires can result in voltage peaks of close to 200 volts – only happens for a brief moment in time during each firing but these voltage peaks can jump across the condenser connections internally if the condenser is starting to fail or is partially shorted. Given the value that your meter is showing the original condenser may be partially shorted internally.
One thing you could try is to use a pair of side cutters and clip one lead about halfway between the capacitor body and the connection where it joins to another component – before doing this clean the lead with a scotchbrite pad or fine emery paper so it will be clean to solder back together afterward if you do not plan on replacing the capacitor. This would remove it out of the circuit temporarily and you could then use two test leads to connect a new capacitor of the correct value and rating 0.15 uF 400 VDC (or condenser) to the circuit where the capacitor is now connected and see if the meter reading changed when testing a coil. If it does then this would indicate the capacitor is probably affecting the meter reading. If the meter reading does not improve then I would check for resistance in any connection point in the circuits that go to the meter terminals (such as the switch terminals or solder or crimped joints). If the new condenser temporarily connected does not change the meter reading and you chose not to replace the original condenser the lead ends that you cut with the side cutters can then be placed back together end to end and a thin strand of wire can be wrapped around several times on the lead on each side and over the join area – this will enable you to solder the lead back together easily and insure a good joint as the wrapped strand of wire will allow the solder to flow and form a good connection. Any electrical connection should be done with a rosin core solder or equivalent – do not use acid core solder – you probably already know that but just thought I would mention it.
Hope this makes sense and helps you
Replacing the capacitor makes the most sense to me at
my skill level. A search for a 0.15uf 400v capacitor
produces a verity of components. I’ll need some
direction to obtain what is correct.
Tubs.
A "Boathouse Repair" is one thats done without having tools or the skills to do it properly.