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#266208
CHUCK
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    You know, I did respond to this before…But somewhere between where I was typing, the website decided to make me sign in again. When I did, all my typing was gone. I said, “[oh darn it all.]” (That’s not REALLY what said, let me tell you.) Anyway, I didn’t bother retyping.

    You can pretty much assume that OEM Phelon condensers are junk. I have never seen a brass-looking one test good. The points, you can clean. Testing and setting them can be a real pain, because of the poor access to the screw that holds the wires on the points. So, I just take the points right out, clean each side nicely, install new condensers and reassemble. I put the wires on the points BEFORE I mount the points back on the mag plate. Now the trick to test them and set timing, etc, is this: Disconnect the coil GROUND wires. By doing that, you can put an ohm meter or test light on the points and see when they open and close, and how much resistance there is across the points, because when the points open, there is no path to ground through the coil’s primary winding! Much easier than putzing with that hard to get point screw! When you’re done testing and adjusting, just hook the ground wires back up.

    I like the idea of attaching the wires first…..and then install the points.  I think I’ve done that a few times. 

    I also have thought of drilling a hole or grinding a slot in the edge of the mag plate….in order to allow a small screw-driver to be inserted for the final tightening.  In fact;  I wonder why the mag-plate was not designed with that little mod in mind?

    My Stevens tester finds very few “good” older  condensors when tested for leakage.  Very obvious difference on the Stevens.