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The two steel disks, No. 27 in the parts diagram above, can sometimes have rust and scale, but usually can be cleaned up. The side that makes contact with the diaphagm needs to be clean and smooth in order to make a proper seal. The nut and lock washer, No. 33 & 32 need to be snug also, and a drop of locktite on the threads helps keep it from backing off.
The button, No. 25, needs to spin freely on the shaft, No. 26, or over time, depressing the button can actually back off the nut and lock washer. The tiny cotter pin, No. 25 fits into a channel in the stem, and goes around the stem, not through it. This allows the button to spin freely.
Any leak in a gas tank is obviously dangerous, and every tank should seal up 100%. Anything less will lead to stale gas in a hurry, and you will forever be replacing your fuel. With a properly sealed tank, I’ve had fuel regularly last a year, with the addition of fuel stabilizer in pressure tanks.
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