The replacement carb from EBay showed up a couple of days ago.
It looked great, but the strainer plug, fuel inlet elbow, nor the adjustment
needle would budge. I took apart what I could, and soaked it overnight
in carb cleaner.
The next morning the said items were still “stuck”, so I proceeded with
penetrating oil, and careful heating with a little propane bottle torch.
After a bit I got the strainer plug to move back and forth about 1/4 turn
but no more. About the same time, the gas line “elbow” fitting loosened
up easy, but I noticed a crack in the casting there.
I ended up cutting the head of the strainer bolt off with a Dremel.
The strainer bolt was “half” ate away, and there was material “welded”
in the threads, from corrosion or galvanic action perhaps.
I was able to collapse the rest of the strainer bolt and got it out.
There’s not much “meat” in the casting between the fuel inlet
and strainer threads where the meet up. Poor design and years
of corrosion probably idled many of these motors.
I wasn’t going to try soldering the crack in the casting, and the strainer
hole threads were “iffy” even after cleaning them up with a tap.
Therefore I made 7/16 x 20 bushing to screw into the original strainer hole,
that has a 5/16″ x 24 hole in the center for a new strainer bolt with nice threads,
and still allow the float needle to pass thru okay.
The OD of the bushing and the fuel inlet fitting was “doped” up with JB Alumi Weld.
Best thing I could find today. Not sure long term how it resist gasoline, but
I’ve had some regular JB Weld on a “three wheeler” gas tank leak for years.
Instead of using the old “elbow’ fitting on the carb inlet, I found a straight fitting
to use, that will make it easier to unplug or rod out if ever needed.
I previously put a brass strainer inside the gas tank, so one in the carb will not be needed.
Hope to try it out in a day or two when the JB Weld is completely cured!
Prepare to be boarded!