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#244429
billw
Participant

    US Member

    I don’t know anything about Turbo Jets….thank God, apparently….but I can help with the earlier question about the fuel gauge. The back of the gauge should have three wires going to it, most likely black, purple and pink. Black is battery ground. Purple should be key-on positive 12 volts. Pink is the wire that carries the “signal” from the sender in the tank. On the tank sender itself, you should see a pink and a black wire. If they both look black, the pink is probably covered with black mold! Anyway, there is never any 12 volt power at the sender. Do not ever try to apply any either, or you might be meeting your make sooner than you’d hoped. First, check that you have power and ground to the back of the gauge, with the key on. If so, then REMOVE the pink wire from the center of the sender and momentarily ground the pink wire, while observing the gauge. It should go full scale. If it doesn’t, you either have a gauge problem or a boat wiring open circuit. More on that later, if you need it; but that’s usually not the case. If the gauge goes full scale in the previous test, you most likely have a bad sender Make sure the connections on the sender are nice and clean. If it still doesn’t work, measure the ohms across the sender (pink wire is still removed) between the center terminal and the ground terminal. It should be between 33 and 240 ohms, depending on the level in the tank. If you don’t get a reading in this range, the sender itself is bad and will need to be replaced. There are after market senders available (Moeller for one) that can be set up to fit the depth of the tank. You will need to know the depth of the tank in order to buy a sender that will be in the right depth range to adapt to your tank.

    Long live American manufacturing!