Reply To: 6V-12V question relating to 1956 Javelin

[David Stanton]

Since it was working and now isn’t – something changed, and you should find out what. If you don’t correct the problem it will likely just get worse bypassing the resistor if the resistor itself is not the problem. It could be any of the following:

1. Ballast resistor resistance increased.
2. Resistance increase of cable ends anywhere there is a connector crimped or soldered on the end of a wire.
3. Loose or corroded terminals at wire ends.
4. Choke push-button switch contacts getting pitted with age, giving the contacts resistance (Try shorting the wires together that connect to the back of the switch and see if the choke works).
5. Termination of internal choke solenoid winding wire at solenoid terminal gone bad increasing resistance.
6. The choke solenoid could have internal short(s) in its coil windings, which will cut down solenoid efficiency, and draw more current, causing more voltage to be soaked up by the resistor.
7. The moving actuator parts of the choke solenoid and/or the choke on the carb itself are gummed up or binding, needing more energy to close the choke.

Note that the resistance of the resistor you added should be the same as the resistance of the choke solenoid coil, so it soaks up half the voltage (soaks up 6 volts). Odds are it’s not the correct resistance, because automotive ballast resistors are sized to soak up half the voltage with an ignition coil load which is different than your choke solenoid load.

Easiest way to check if you have the right resistor is to put a voltmeter across the resistor and you should read half the battery voltage (6 volts) when you push the choke button. If you are a ways off 6 volts, either the resistor is wrong, or the choke solenoid coil has developed shorts or high resistance termination at the coil wire ends.

If you troubleshoot with an Ohmmeter, you will need a meter that reads accurately at very low resistances.
Let us know what you find!
Dave