Reply To: Installing new spark plug cables 1947 TD 20 Sea Horse

[Shamus]

This is a repeat of a post I submitted, but which seems to have disappeared after an edit attempt. My apologies if you have received it or a version of it twice.

I wanted to thank all of you who contributed advice and straight out instructions for replacing spark plug wires on my TD 20. I screwed up my courage and went ahead and did the deed, and it went smoothly…sort of. After soldering the wires with very shaky hands, rerouting the new wires, crimping new wires and adding new boots, testing the coils and wires with a multi meter, I put the old lady back together, hauled her out of the workshop Easter Sunday into a garbage can of water, and let her rip…and nothing. Muttering vile imprecations, I hauled the motor back to the workshop, tore her down, rechecked all connections…and realized I had forgotten to move the magneto from stop to start…(I know, I’m an idiot). I put the motor back together, hauled her back to the garbage can, and with the help of some starting fluid got her up and running. Joy in Mudville!

A couple of observations that might make the process a bit easier for the next person – 1. I used a heat gun to gently heat the cables to allow them to conform to the tight turns they make on the base which holds the points and coils, and allows you to curve them right up to the coil terminal – helping to stabilize the tinned cable ends right up to the coil terminal – a great help for people with trembling hands.
2. Be prepared to have a hard time finding cable parts – Apparently making your own spark plug cables is rapidly becoming a thing of the past. I went to no less than five auto parts stores and one farm supply store (L&M Fleet Supply) and none of their sales people had ever made their own cables, only two had spark plug boots and snaps, only one had copper core spark plug cable and only one had a spark plug cable crimper ($38) although another one sold me what they assured would work (which it did not). To find the parts I needed involved either blank looks or long dives into seldom used parts catalogs.

Anyway, the old lady seems to be working fine now, although I am going to have to learn the fine points of lean vs rich gas mixtures – at top speed in the garbage can she was putting out a lot of smoke and backfiring a few times. At start speed it ran just fine.

I did notice that while the pee hole seemed to be jetting out water normally, there was also water spitting out of the joint between the two pilot screws on the lower shaft. If you refer to the photos marked 5754 and 5756a, the water seems to be spraying from the rubber seal or ring at the joint above two holes. Is this normal or does this warrant some further adjustment/inspection?

Anyway, thanks much for all the advice and help. I’,m now considering pulling apart the second motor I inherited, which appears to be a 1951 or 52 Evenrude Big Twin 25 hp, but I’ll have to find an owner’s manual first, just to get the cowling off?

Regards,
John Egelhof
Bemidji, MN