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#233115
Timothy McDonald
Participant

    I was just out on the water with this motor. My take on this is a follows. The sharper valve solves my problem of oversensitivity. Note that valve has no knob, just a small cross pin. I guess the original users finding they could turn the valve all the way in or all the way out managed to either damage the valve or get the adjustment wrong. When they took it back to Sears the company was notified of the problem. As those who know the motor know, I did not mount the carb face plate since it prevents turning the valve more that 180 degrees. On a rebuilt motor and carb you’ll need more motion than that. However, to make the carb fool proof I think the factory came up with the indexed knob which has a lug on the bottom which prevents over 180 degrees motion WHEN the faceplate is mounted. For a new motor the factory simply ran the motor and set the knob. Because there was only 180 degrees movement possible they had to alter the needle vale tip for greater sensitivity. The sharper valve needs near a quarter turn to do what just a sixteenth inch , maybe 5 degrees, will do on the blunted valve. If the motor is new and running new, this works fine. On a worn motor it doesn’t work. I’m quite certain someone removed the faceplate in the past and twisted the valve all the way in , and tight… maybe to prevent leakage when the motor sits in the car. However, I still feel the seat is damaged. With the sharp needle this doesn’t matter. How’s my logic?