Good evening all,
Well, the results are in. I pulled the carb again and went through it with attention to all the info provided by Crosbyman, Fleetwin and others. I did not find any dirt but I blew out all passages and under the welsh plug too. The LS needle is still a bit blunt but I cleaned it up with some very fine emery cloth. There is no broken point in the LS orfice. It now cold starts reliably on the third pull with choke on and throttle at 3/4. Warm starts reliably on one pull with no choke and throttle at 3/4. Trolls about the same. BarreI test shows it still runs best with the LS needle at 2.5 turns out. Wire off tests at 1/2 throttle show equal RPM drop for each cylinder ( I forgot how much that stray current hurts!). Overall performance is acceptable and I think this will be all I do on this one> If the hard cold start condition returns I will likely jury rig a primer. I did this on my 1970’s snowmobile engines and they were never more than a 2 pull start even in the coldest weather after the retrofit. I’m pleased with the performance of the electronic ignition modules. An unanticipated benefit of having them mounted on a heatsink off the block is that you can carry an extra one in your tackle box and change one on the lake with nothing more than a screwdriver if one should fail. Can’t do that if it’s under the flywheel. I attached a better picture of the assembly if anyone cares. I hope to keep you posted as to their ultimate success or failure sometime next summer. Onto my next project – a 1951 Neptune Mighty Mite 1.5 hp built by Muncie Gear Works, Muncie Indiana. My long gone dad loved his and literally wore it out. Many Thanks to all who commented Esp. Crosbyman for teaching me to “chase one rabbit at a time”
