Re: Johnson Model A

[kevinrude]

quote lotec:

The Johnson Waterbug/Lightwins are a great motor, one of the most reliable outboards ever made! To answer your questions:

#1) DO NOT use the rope plate screws to pull the flywheel, they are brass and not long enough or strong enough. Also, the original rope plate screws are an odd size/pitch so you can’t use the holes in the flywheel with a modern fastener for pulling. I don’t remember the size/pitch (something like #12-26) but they are impossible to find today so take care of the ones you have. Best to make a "knocker" to remove the flywheel, I think photos have been posted before on how to do this. Be very careful, if needed use penetrating oil and a little heat – if you still have the original 1924 stepped flywheel, they are known to be fragile.

#2) There’s a lot of info that applies to the A-series you may find helpful in the write-up I did for the YankeeAOMCI site when we celebrated Johnson’s 85th anniversary. Here’s the link, scroll about 1/2 way down: http://www.yankeeaomci.org/johnsonat85.htm

There’s also lots of good information over on the green board under the "Old Iron Reference Library" and in the 1970s OUTBOARDER archives.

I’m with Richard, disassemble the cylinders to make sure your rings are free, hopefully that’s the issue with the compression. You may find the original backfire baffles in the intake, many remove them to ensure they don’t break apart and cause damage. (I think there have been other posts on this subject) As noted in the YankeeAOMCI write-up, the condensers and wires often need replacing. The only other common bother I’ve found is check valves in the waterpump are subject to getting stuck – they are pretty easy to free up though.

Parts may be available from Doug Penn and I think Art DeKalb made some things like transom pads, etc…

Thanks for the response! Your #1 above jives with what Richard said too. I’ll hafta research the knocker as you suggest.

Funny that you mention the Yankee chapter website in #2. When I was inspecting the motor, I had called up that exact website on my phone so that I could look at your pictures and compare to what I was seeing in the actual motor. That’s where I noticed it was all complete, including the air horn (at least I think that thing coming out of the carb is an air horn) and the fact that the transom clamps were correct. I also concluded from your website that this motor was one of the "older" ones because the model # and serial # were stamped in the same area, unlike the picture on your website which you state is for motors from the late 20s/early 30s.

I’ll check out the other sources you suggest as well.

Thanks again!