Hey guys, i went back to beginning of this post back in August and reviewed all the on goings of this motor since August.
It seemed like you got the ignition resolved and carburetor issue somewhat resolved (you have not been able to dial it on boat or in a test tank for the final settings). I am referring back to post #211151.
August 8, 2020 at 2:32 pm
#211151
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Success. I got it run!
Now, you had the gear case off the motor and seemed to run decent. You then put the gear case back on the motor and started it up in the barrel and experienced a significant amount of water coming out of near the bottom of the cylinder head. Phil made a comment that it could be the cylinder head plug. It seemed that you resolve the leaking from the base of the cylinder head, but maybe not.
I have a suspicion, that water is leaking into the cylinders( most probably the lower cylinder) and causing it to run rough and erratic.
*****Looking back at your very first post of this thread, you made comment of the things that you had done and evaluated.*****
I have taken a part the power head and rehone the cylinder, both of them got 115/113 psi. The block has been sand blasted and paint back base color
. So far I got done step #1.
Step 2: Spark. It did not have spark so I have replaced two external ignition coils, new points and condensers. I got OK spark on the cylinder #2 and intermittent spark on cylinder #1 (sometime no spark at all). I have set the gap of 0.020″. The only thing I did not replace is the Charging Coil 581130 (Driver Coil). There is only one charge coil on OMC Armature Plate Assembly. Does it have 2 independent coil inside for each cylinder or only one for both? Does the point gap (0.020″) affect the spark quality?
Do I need to replace the Charging coil too?
All opinions and helps are welcomed.
I have some specific questions that might clarify if you are having a water entering your cylinders.
– When you removed your cylinder head to hone the cylinders, did you replace the cylinder head gasket or did your reuse the old one?
– Prior to putting the cylinder head back did you clean and true the mating surfaces with sandpaper in a figure 8 pattern?
– Did you torque the cylinder head bolts 96 to 120
- inch pounds
(not foot pounds) in at least a 2 to 3 pass system. 1/4 torque the first pass, then about half torque the second pass and full torque the final pass. (it is advisable to do an additional full torque pass after the motor has come up to temp and run to compensate for heat expansion). There is a torque pattern that helps with even application of torque across the cylinder head surface. I will post a diagram below.
- – Please remove both spark plugs to look at there condition.
– Do the spark plugs have water droplets on them or look like they are clean from water exposure? They should be dry and slightly grayish from combustion.
If you reuse a old cylinder head gasket, do not clean and true the cylinder head mating surfaces or fail to torque the cylinder head you run the risk of water entering the cylinder from the cooling pathways.
Again, this is just speculation and may not be a factor if you did all the above things. I’ll butt out, I just wanted verify that there was not a water intrusion issue.
