Re: Onto a new learning curve…CD ignition

[Don]

Well, once again, what seems like simple terms can cause a lot of confusion. None of the OMC magCD systems (excluding FFI/ETEC) were "alternator driven". There are separate windings for the alternator that had nothing to do with the ignition system. Adding more confusion, the ignition windings are referred to as "charge coil(s)". The only thing the two systems have in common are the flywheel magnets.
Most of the magCD systems you are interested in working on are actually pretty simple, so it is best to KISS. Sometimes, our test equipment can cause a lot of confusion along with incorrect conclusions as well. There are so many different settings and voltage ranges used, it is very easy to get derailed by a meter that is set/calibrated improperly. And, now that there are adapters that can be used with fluke meters, I’m sure confusion will increase. Remember, there is nothing more valuable than common sense. In other words, coming up with a conclusion that there is no charge coil output on a 25hp (CD2) that has spark on just one cylinder just doesn’t make sense!
There are basic tests that should be used on the CD2 system before diving into output readings. The first simple test is the stop switch elimination test. The stop circuits on these engines can cause many ignition problems, especially on salt water engines. The next simple test is checking those amphenol (rubber plugs) connections. The pins and sockets sometimes get pushed back into the rubber plugs, or bent/corroded causing weak/no connections, and salt water surely can aggravate these conditions. Investing in the three amphenol pin/socket tools is a must. Never cut the wires to avoid dealing with the pins/sockets, butt connectors/black tape is a NO NO. Next, always be sure to check coil and pack grounds with an ohm meter calibrated to the low ohms scale. Again, using a meter you are unfamiliar with, or calibrated to the wrong scale, might allow you to overlook this simple problem.
Finally, yes I realize that the powerpack is the most complex component, and is usually the cause of the problem. BUT, it is important to check all components when replacing the pack. Yes, the new pack might solve your problem for now, but the new pack might be damaged quickly by the bad connection/weak ground/marginal component you didn’t check.