Reply To: 1948-52 Champion 2K Repair (4.2 HP)

[larkbill]

I’m thinking the magneto is very similar to one of the ones Merc used. The Bendix? When I sold a couple of these as parts motors a few years ago I recall a Merc guy grabbing one of them for the coil. Like Frank said if the coil is solid and not cracked a good cleaning of the points should get it going. If the gap isn’t marked on the base plate .018 to .020 will work.

These motors don’t have the other issues our beloved Merc and OMC motors do. The float is brass and the water pump impeller is metal too. The gearfoot uses any 105 water resistant white grease, usually sold in Farm & Home or auto parts stores. An upgrade would be Corn Head Grease also at the farm store or tractor dealer.

Clean and set the points, clean the carb and fuel system (one of my runners came with a plugged up fuel line) and be sure to remove the prop before bucket cruising. They have a unique cooling system and need to be revved up just a little to get it going. And of course deep enough in the water to submerge the pump.

Lubrication for the powerhead. I think I had one once with the decal intact enough to read and I think they called for 10/1. I have always run mine on 16/1 with an oil recommended by one of our older members (which I guess now I am one). 30 or 40 wt non-detergent mixed 50-50 with modern oil then mixed at 16/1 with gas, ethanol free if you can get it. I can’t around home and I really haven’t had any problem with the ethanol added. These have bushings at both ends of the crank and the lower one is also a rotary intake valve, and no seals. The heavy oil helps cushion and seal while the modern oil reduces fouling.

They have a unique sound and will idle so slow folks will think it’s a four stroke. Above all be safe and have fun.