I will just add my two cents to this. When I split my tanks open, I take them to an automotive machine shop. They have a giant, horizontal belt sander. It’s very purpose is to true up slightly warped parts. I give the guy twenty bucks and the tank halves are as true as the day they were made, in about five minutes. Also, the last tank I did was a WD3S Wizard. Rather than fuss with a gasket, I tried an experiment and used that red, jelly donut-like, anaerobic sealant, the same stuff used on crank case halves. It is known to stand up to ethanol, at least as good as anything can. I let it set up for a week, just to be sure to give it the best chance at success. I ran the motor at the Lowell Mass meet in September, for at least an hour straight, with no leaks evident. Going forward, I think I will do this again. It was much easier than the gasket method.. It “seams” to work, if you’ll pardon the pun.
I sandblasted the gas tank halves today, and will try to lap them tomorrow.
Decided to read up on Anaerobic sealants. Found this article that makes
me nervous about using anaerobic sealants on the Mercury tank.
What’s your favorite “gas proof sealant”?
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4. Using an RTV or anaerobic gasket maker on an application that is exposed to gasoline-
Only solvent-based gasket makers have the ability to stand up to repeated direct contact to gasoline. Powersports vehicles, antique cars, gas-powered tools, and equipment all tend to have their gaskets exposed to gasoline. Gas weakens RTV and anaerobic flange sealants. If your assembly will have direct exposure to gasoline, you should use a solvent-based gasket maker.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/06/10-common-gasket-maker-mistakes/
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Prepare to be boarded!