Yes on that tote (forgot they are 275 gallons). Again the test prop is key. And running with a regular prop doesnt balance the load in a test tank. They are usually on craigslist too for cheaper (around here they are 50-100.00).
Its pushing an immovable object and is not the right way to calibrate the motor. Take an old damaged prop and cut down the blades if you cant get a genuine test prop.
Its not nearly as good but is better than nothing. The OEM test props cut down on splash A LOT. Props with cut blades dont do this as well, and it’s easy to run an engine at too high RPMs with a cut prop method.
Others on here will say the cut prop is ‘good enough’ but I do this all the time with customers motors of all different sizes and Ill say an good OEM test prop is much better for evaluation/calibration procedures.
I personally only use cut props if I have no other option.
If you need to vent I just cut a hatch at the top rear of my tote and use a strong floor fan. Works just fine and keeps exhaust fumes away. I put a splash deflector at the middle of the tank too.
Or just keep an eye out on craigslist for closed marinas. Those big iron horses are a PITA to move and I see them get abandoned and scrapped out every year. They weigh a ton and the water gets rusty fast.
If you build out of wood make sure you have a strong frame! 300 gallons is 2400lbs of weight and a lot of expansion stress.
Remember buy test tank cleaner. It emulsifies and breaks down the oil/gas. It’s made specifically for test tanks. Again others might just say ‘use dish soap’ but that just makes a bigger mess with bubbles everywhere and foam. The actual tank cleaner suds up but then goes away and lasts much longer. 1 gallon Ive been using for 2 seasons and it works great.
