OK, well if there is no control box hooked up to the engine, the safety key switch stop circuit should not be the issue. But, there could still be a short/ground in the powerpack stop lead somewhere in the engine harness. So, the pack black yellow lead should be disconnected/removed from its amphenol connector. Do you have the amphenol pin tools? If not, it can be kinda tough to work on this system. Please do not cut leads or pierce them in order to check outputs/resistances. Use isopropyl alcohol to lubricate the rubber connectors and make pin/socket removal installation easier. Do not spray any other lubes/oils into the rubber connectors, these can actually conduct electricity and cause nasty problems down the road.
Fiinally, you cannot compare the quikstart sensors to the older plain sensors. The older sensors are simpler three simple windings connected together with a common lead. The newer quikstart sensors are relatively complex electronically, and will have no similar testing procedures or outputs. You have the flywheel and sensors removed from your engine, so check one more thing for me…..The flywheels on these engines had two sets of magnets, the large ones glued to the outer rim of the flywheel, and the little sensor magnet ring glued to the inner hub of the flywheel. Try grabbing the inner sensor magnet ring and twisting it on the inner hub. You should not be able to move the inner sensor magnet ring, the flywheel is NG if you can twist/move it….
OK, so you just bought this engine and have never had it running. Was it sold to you as a running engine? If so, seems kinda strange that it has not spark…. For now, try finding the powerpack stop lead, it is a black lead with a yellow tracer. Some of the engines/powerpacks have a convenient stop lead that is connected with a single amphenol connector, making it easy to disconnect to eliminate possible ground issues when checking for spark.
Again, unfortunately, I am away from home and service manuals, so don’t have pictures/procedures/test results handy for your engine. But, I think/hope the problem is a simpler one than the sensor assembly. Whenever I “get in too deep”, I always back up to “the basics”. The basics for this engine are checking powerpack and coil grounds. I “think” the ignition components are mounted on some sort of bracket on your engine, perhaps it is not grounded. Check all four grounds between their ground leads/straps and the negative battery cable post on the exhaust manifold. Using the low ohms scale, resistance readings should be less than one ohm. Next, I would disconnect/pull apart all those pesky amphenol connections to check for bent/pushed out pins/sockets, use the isopropyl alcohol in the rubber connectors to ease reassembly.
Finally, I will ask something I should have asked first. How are you checking for spark? Are you using a spark tester or just watching for spark with the plugs/removed and grounded against the block?
Again, please to shell out the big bucks for the new sensor ring just yet, and please do not pierce or cut leads in an effort to test outputs/resistances. The amphenol pin/socket tools are really a must for working on these systems. What manual are you using to check this system? The OMC manual, or some aftermarket one? Aftermarket manuals tend to be very generic and confusing. Feel free to post pictures of manual pages relating to troubleshooting, perhaps I can help walk you through some procedures while I am away…..Don
