Home › Forum › Ask A Member › 25/35 impeller housing know-how › Re: 25/35 impeller housing know-how

#24294
johnyrude200
Participant
    quote fleetwin:

    My money is on a messed up/melted water pump, misinstalled/bent/kinked water tube. I’m thinking the gearcase to SS impeller plate mating surface is OK because you state this is a fresh water engine.

    Is the impeller housing spacer/orings in place?
    #64
    This style water pump does not have a conventional seal in the plastic housing and should have the little vent hole you are talking about. You mention installing a new impeller, did you use OEM or aftermarket? You may want to invest in the complete BRP water pump kit with the plastic housing to ensure none of the things Dan mentioned about the water pump is an issue.

    I didn’t get to the motor today, because I was busy tearing apart a 1985 20hp to ready the transplant of this powerhead onto another pan/leg for next season and just convert it over to a permanent manual start.

    A couple of questions. I noticed upon first inspection that both coils were melted onto the powerhead. I have seen this on motors before, it is the type of coil that is the black plastic encased coil, and I have seen them partially melted on motors where they were installed without the fiber washer. I always install these fiber and star washers according to the order in the service manual…and to help prevent melting issues with the coil grounding straps. The ignition system works fine on this motor (1/2 bright spark…so strong it was jumping out of the boot to the block when I gaped the spark tester too far….). This motor doesn’t show discoloration or paint flaking anywhere, and still has very high compression. Who knows what the history of it is. I know it had been sitting in an indoor garage for a long time though.

    Where is the little vent hole in the water pump? This impeller housing has a metal cup inside the plastic housing.

    Tomorrow I will run further tests to zero in on where the water blockage is…1st, run the gearcase off the motor with my drill to see if it’s pumping water…then 2nd, hook up a garden hose to the water pickup tube on the motor with the gearcase off to see if it will accept active water at all.

    By the end of the day I hope to have the issue identified, because I’ll be pulling the powerhead off and installing onto a dedicated pan/leg for only manual start since the electric start bracket on the front of the crank is beyond salvage.

    I happen to have another 35hp powerhead in good shape in stock, so I will do a swap out on the original leg/pan to get this order completed.

    Can anyone recommend where to find the special 1/2 inch offset wrench recommended for unscrewing the top two powerhead to exhaust housing screws?
    I have been able to mickey mouse a regular wrench being held with vice grips, but it sure would be nice to have the right wrench for this job. The port side screw in particular is pretty tough to get at, even with the vertical throttle arm and solenoid removed.