Home › Forum › Ask A Member › Johnson Tune-up Kit(s) › Re: Johnson Tune-up Kit(s)
Well, the part numbers for the tune up kits are: 172522 (7.5hp) and 172523(18hp), these kits use the same points but different condensers. These tune up kits are still available and can be bought/ordered from any Evinrude/BRP dealer, or they can be ordered online from a place like: marineengine.com
You won’t need a tach/dwell meter for most outboards, but a decent compression gage is a must. Gages with long hoses and schrader valves near the gage can give false readings on small engines with little combustion chambers. You will need a good flywheel puller to work on the classic OMC outboards, and I recommend the OMC puller kit: 378103. Yes, others may recommend cheaper options, but I think spending the bucks for the right kit is essential to avoid problems pulling the flywheels, breaking the puller/bolts and engine damage, not to mention injuring yourself. You will also need some sort of strap wrench to hold the flywheels while torquing, the one from Stevens is not too expensive. These are tools you will use constantly if you are working with/on OMC classic outboards. You are making an engine stand now, but you will also need to devise some sort of gearcase fixture so you can do water pump jobs and internal gearcase work. I made a fixture out of wood which is good enough for small outboards. You may want to fabricate some sort of metal fixture if you are handy with metal work. You will also need some sort of gearcase pressure tester. The testers from Stevens Instruments work very well, but are pricey. You can just buy the threaded adapters from Stevens to fit into the gearcase fill/drain threads and rig up your own pressure pump/gage though. Needless to say, you will need a decent inch pound torque wrench to assemble most of these engines, you might want a foot pound torque wrench for the flywheel nuts. You will need a decent volt/ohmmeter, and you don’t really want to scrimp on this either, this is a tool you will use constantly. The coil output testers are quite expensive, so I don’t think you want to spring for one unless you find a used one in good shape, which is unlikely. Digital vs analog, well that is personal preference I guess. A decent shop vise is a must as well, along with a decent wire/grinding wheel. Having a little compressor is necessary as well.
Be sure to post pictures of your engine stand!