Reply To: OMC Pinion Shaft Shock Absorber

[fisherman6]

When I weld mine I use a MIG welder. Once the shock absorber is pressed back to its correct dimension it has to be cleaned thoroughly. Residual oil will seep out once it is heated and adversely affect the weld. I do not find that I need to hold them during welding to keep them straight as long as it is straight before I start welding and I use some care and judgement during welding. I normally use 4 good tacks around the circumference of the joint where the upper and lower halves come together. As long as you get decent weld penetration into both halves the 4 tack beads will never break loose under any amount of abuse that an OMC 7.5hp engine will throw at it, especially if you go to a brass shear pin in the prop. The gears will give up before those welds will.

When you weld something, it tends to draw together at the weld as it cools. The object here is to control the amount of heat and therefore the amount of draw, as well as the direction of the draw. When I make the welds I start with the first bead and there is no need to pour a bunch wire into it. Just make a good solid tack bead. Turn the shock 180° and do it again directly opposite the first bead as close to the same size bead as the first one. Allow it to cool a couple minutes and then either quench it in water or use a wet rag to remove most of the remaining heat from the part. The third tack goes right between the first two and repeat the process 180° from that one again and either let the part cool or quench it again after a couple minutes. Using this method I have never had one turn out crooked. If you start at any given point and just pour the coal to it all the way around the part until you meet up with where you started, well… there’s a good chance it won’t turn out so great.
-Ben

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