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I’ll assume that you’re talking about removing the outer race for the tapered roller bearing that is a slip fit on the propshaft.
My usual trick is to exploit the differences between heat and cold as Tubs suggests. I go as far as to buy some dry ice and use it to chill the interior parts whilst fanning the exterior with a propane torch, then “forcefully applying” the bearing housing against a wood slab (thought it better than saying “slamming”).
If the non-destructive method doesn’t remove the race, then you’ll have to use a destructive method (grind through the race so that it can collapse inward and relieve the tension of the press fit.)
Before you do that, ask yourself some questions;
1) How badly is the outer race pitted? (because it will be) Degree of surface damage may tell you if replacement is warranted, or if its good enough to “get by”
2) How does the inner race seem to fit with the outer race WRT smoothness of operation, looseness/tightness, etc? If it fits OK, and rolls OK, and isn’t rough or sloppy, maybe it ain’t really broke, so do you really need to fix it?
2) How much is this motor going to be run?
4) if the bearing was good enough to run the motor the last time it was used, are you willing to bet she’s got at least one good run left in her as-is but with a good cleaning and lube session used to help it live a bit longer?
5) Did you notice I asked #2 twice and skipped #3?
FWIW I’ve worked on a few of these lower units, usually on Sr Speedsters or Super C’s; and the roller bearings were usually the least of my worries. Propshafts and bushings usually need replacing, while the roller or ball bearings are normally salvageable with being washed out and repacked with the appropriate grease. Just my $0.02
I was gonna upload some pixels, but I guess my files are all too big. Blah™
Hope this helps.
Best,
PM T2
He's livin' in his own private Idaho..... I hope to go out quietly in my sleep, like my grand-dad did..... and not screaming, like the passengers in his car...