Re: OMC remote controls with the big red plug…

[johnyrude200]

Moving further along in this process…

Basically the older style black plugs have 5 leads.

black for kill switch
black/yellow for kill switch
purple/white for electric choke
yellow/red for key/starter
red/purple for key/starter

The newer plugs have 3 more leads.

purple for accessory/alarm
grey for accessory
tan for accessory/alarm

After a good conversation with T2Stroke, considerations have to made for the neutral lockout switch too, and in this case, we have a situation where there is one on the motor, and a 2nd one in the updated style control box. If either read forward/reverse gearshift, it stops electricity from flowing through to the starter by creating an open chain circuit.

In my case, I am going to try leaving both on the motor and control box because this motor is also a tiller control with manual starter. So if I ever end up using the motor as a tiller motor, then I still want the neutral lockout feature (or if I sell it off some day, safety for the next owner).

I’m not sure how leaving both neutral lockout features can cause any problems, since the yellow/red wires essentially are creating a river of electricity, and those lockout switches are simple ‘breaks’ to stop the flow of power if either is open. Both switches just allow the electricity to be grounded and flow; power goes in, then is grounded to the motor. If the switch is open, then that electricity doesn’t keep flowing.

I mean, let’s say my control box fails somehow, or a cable breaks, or whatever, and I end up having to steer home using the tiller and removing the shift/throttle cables. I’ll have to either leave the key in the ‘on’ position, or just unplug the harness to use the motor as a tiller/manual start motor.

Not as complicated as I thought. I will say that looking at electrical schematics of the motor plug from ’78, and the control boxes from the 80’s, the diagrams are inaccurate (they forgot to reverse the color scheme for plug/wiring layout for the plugs). I ended up tearing apart the control box and using the continuity tester to verify which plug leads where what in the plug end. They were opposite of the service manual diagram, and the diagram ISN’T a mirror image of what you’re looking at.